Tomato Tart with Herbed Rye Crust and Lemon Ricotta

This was supposed to be a simple tomato tart. I've made it many times over the last year, but I never got around to posting the recipe. This time, halfway through, I changed my mind. I had a pile of the most glorious tomatoes -- too many trips to the farmers market and too little restraint, I guess -- and slicing them seemed like sacrilege. (Just check out the wreath photo! It was so beautiful, it sat on the dining table for two days before I mustered the courage to take it apart.)

What can I say, other than I'm so pleased with how it turned out? The tart is a showstopper, and tastebud-wise it delivers, too. It's wholesome, explosive, and it pulls you in until you can't let it go: the crunch from the crust, the softness of the ricotta, and the tomatoes that are melting but not quite. It's the kind of dish that needs no other accompaniment -- except for a glass of Riesling, candlelight, and a good friend to share it with. And a nice piece of gossip, of course.

While the filling is to die for, what really shines here is the crust. Dark rye flour (for a deep flavor), pastry flour (for tenderness), and a sprinkle of herbs (a surprise). The combination of dark and light, yin and yang, the whole opposites-attract-thing, it just works. The herb I love most for this recipe -- and in general -- is winter savory. Savory is a wunderbar herb, as if thyme, rosemary, marjoram, and oregano all came together in a wild chase. Savory reigns supreme in my book, but if you don't have it, any of the others -- or a combination of them -- will be just fine.

What else? You’ll need good ricotta. I get mine from DiPalo's Fine Foods in Little Italy, because it's DiPalo's; if you care about good food and Gotham's culinary heirlooms, this store is not to be missed. Even with the best ricotta, you'll still want to strain it overnight to get rid of any excess moisture. You'll also want a metal tart pan, a pizza stone (or a baking sheet), and an egg wash. This crust isn't blind baked, so to avoid a soggy bottom, we'll brush the bottom with the egg wash, use a metal pan for better heat conductivity, and bake the tart on a preheated baking sheet (ideally a pizza stone).

That's all there is to it. There are still a couple of days of hot weather to be had, the markets are singing, and the tomatoes are at their sweetest, so go for it. You have no excuses.

Tomato Tart with Herbed Rye Crust and Lemon Ricotta


for the crust:

150 grams white pastry flour
75 grams dark stone ground rye flour
18 grams Turbinado sugar
1 tablespoon winter savory, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
170 grams (12 tablesppons) butter, frozen and cut into 1/2" dice
65 grams – 75 grams iced water

for the filling:

about 2 pounds tomatoes of various shapes and colors
2 cups good quality ricotta (strained overnight)
zest from one lemon grated on a microplane
salt and black pepper
egg wash

hardware:

10-inch-deep tart fluted pan
pizza stone or baking sheet


Make the crust: Combine the flours, sugar, savory, and salt in a blender. Pulse to combine. Add the butter and pulse several times, to create flour-coated pebbles about 1/8” to 1/4” in size. Add the ice water (start with less and add more if needed), and pulse once or twice, or until the dough is barely cohesive. Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and press it into a disk. Wrap the dough and chill it for at least 4 hours, or overnight. The crust can be stored in fridge for two to three days, or frozen for three weeks.

To assemble: On a lightly floured surface roll the chilled pastry into a 14” circle about 1/4” thick. Place in the tart pan. Brush the bottom of the tart with the egg wash. Return to refrigerator for an hour to chill.

Place the pizza stone on the bottom rack of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350F for at least an hour.

Mix the ricotta with lemon zest, salt, and a pinch of black pepper. Cover the bottom of the tart with ricotta. Arrange the tomatoes all over. Sprinkle with salt.

Place the tart on the pizza stone and bake for about 75 minutes.

Enjoy at room temperature or barely warm.